Physiological changes of normal facial skin and moderate acne skin caused by longterm exposure to acidic environment


Guihua Lin, Yanzhu Jiang, Shan Du and Rong Xiao

Amorepacific (Shanghai) D&I Center Co., Ltd. Pr, China

: J Clin Exp Dermatol Res

Abstract


With the transformation of the high-efficacy era, whether it is for anti-acne or exfoliating, Chinese consumers of different skin types have an increasing demand for acidic care. At present, there are relevant efficacy studies on products with high content of acidic ingredients, but there are very few researches on dosage forms with content limited by Chinese regulations (the total content of alpha-hydroxy acids and their salts and esters shall not exceed 6%). To study the effects of long-term exposure to an acidic environment (5% gluconolactone) on the skin barrier, absorption of follow-up products and skin type. 43 women were enrolled in the study, 22 with normal skin and 21 with moderate acne. TEWL, hydration, sebum, redness, keratin, blackheads, pores, ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids were measured on week 0 and week 4. Niacinamide absorption was analysed on week 0 and week 4 to evaluate the effect of acidic care on the absorption of subsequent products. Intercellular lipids CER[NP], CER[NS], CER[NP/NS], cholesterol, fatty acids, skin barrier related parameters TEWL and hydration were significantly increased, sebum were significantly decreased in the normal and moderate acne skin. Skin redness and niacinamide absorption were improved in moderate acne skin. Low-concentration acidic care enhance skin barrier and absorption by changing the intercellular lipids without negatively affecting skin. Gentle acidic care can build healthy skin and suitable for daily use in both normal and acne skin.

Biography


Guihua Lin has completed master from Chungbuk national university and published graduation the this in journal of Alzheimer’s disease (IF 4.1). Lin Guihua is Amor Pacific’s cosmetics clinical efficacy senior researcher. She has participated in many conferences and conventions.

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